Saturday, July 10, 2010

The Artisans of Patan

After the long hike down the mountain, we had a still longer drive out of the mountains.  At about 11 pm after 9 hours of rattling along in the land cruiser on unpaved roads, stopping briefly to return Atit and JR to the village, we arrived back at the Kathmandu Guest House.  The next couple of days were a whirlwind of meeting with my suppliers and trying to show Tania around Kathmandu.  During this time, still ecstatic about my trip to the mountains, I talked to everyone that I knew about how to help create a library for a rural school in the mountains of Nepal.



Tania and I visited an area of Kathmandu called Patan where most of the craftspeople's families have lived for centuries.  When I walk up and down the narrow streets, I literally trip over masterpieces.  Even the gutters have carvings of open mouthed celestial beings that spout water.  All day long in this area you can hear the hammering and chiseling of statues, prayer wheels, door handles, window frames and all manner of handicraft items.  The craftspeople live in districts where many of the neighbors are related and everyone seems to have the same vocation.  There are entire blocks of silversmiths, stone cutters, metal workers, or painters. This is not a tourist show, this is art as work and worship intertwined-- life as it always has been in Patan.

Here are the ordinary dwellings of Patan! 

This is an inner courtyard.  There was a little cafe back here where we had lunch behind the apartment homes.



Below is Patan Durbar Square, or Patan King's Square.  What I love about this place is how alive it is.  I have been to beautiful town centers in the USA that are virtually empty.  This square is 500 years old and much more than that in spots. It is composed of temples, museums, homes and shops. It is also the playground of children, the market place for merchants, the holy place for believers, where women separate the wheat from the chaff, and the meeting place for old men who smoke and swap stories.  It is a place to think, to work, or to beg.  Life happens here!

Please double click on these so that you can see the detail and the exquisite beauty that I saw.











Even in the city, many people get their water from, and bathe in, the public taps.

14 comments:

  1. I wanna go there! America is so sterile comparatively.

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  2. "Exquisite beauty" is certainly true. It is wonderful to see a culture that values skills of craft and art. I can see why you return to this place and bring back pieces and information to share with the rest of the world. I hope you have much success in helping the school children.

    If I get posters and similar products for the school, could I just send them in the mail?

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  3. The detail in these photos is fantastic. It enables me to see all the intricacies of these incredible sculptures. How beautiful this culture is.

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  4. Exquisite architecture - beautifully featured in your photographs. I would swallow many flies if I were there, as my jaw would forever be dropped in awe.

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  5. Ellen, you are always welcome to join me. Start saving those pennies. $2,000 will get you over and back and about $1,000 would allow you to do all of the things that I did on this last trip...food and lodging for 2 weeks, mountain flight around Everest, trip to the mountains, trip to the jungle to ride elephants. I'll post about the jungle later.

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  6. Leenie, Yes, you can send posters or books directly to the school in Nepal. However, the shipping would probably cost more than the books are worth. That is why I was recommending posters or something light. Currently, the road to the school near Tatopani is washed out. They won't be able to receive packages for 4 months. The best way to give books to students in Nepal is through 'Room to Read.' I have put a link to their website top right of my blog. The students can receive a book for a buck! These are good books printed in both English and Nepalese.

    As soon as the school sends me their proposal, I will be collecting money and wiring it to Nepal for the library. But if you have books that you just want to send right now please don't let me slow you down. The kids would love it. *Also, I can hand carry up to 50 lbs of books to Nepal on my next trip but that won't be for several months.

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  7. What an incredible place. The artistry, in everything, must be amazing to see up close. You can almost hear the sounds of the people, working throughout the centuries.

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  8. "this is art as work and worship intertwined." Can you imagine? I suppose you don't have to.

    You tell it with a tender touch, with reverance for a way of life that has depth in history and even the now.

    xo
    erin

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  9. Thank you for posting these magical photos..what a treat..I can dream, can't I?

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  10. Inextricably intertwined..I can see. Some of these ancient buildings are enhanced dramatically with the warm light. Nice captures of an enchanting far-away land Butternut! Are you a little wiped out or invigorated now?

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  11. Good question Kilauea, I've been meditating on increasing my energy level. There is so much that I would like to do but I've been feeling completely wiped out of late.

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  12. Incredible, your photos are such a treat. I wanted to say that the largest priority mail box, which holds quite alot is $55.00 U.S. to fill. And it doesn't matter what the weight is. I've recently sent off 2 to Zimbabwe, and now i'm filling up one for your school too Jeri. A little really can go a long way.
    (i'm still trying to save my money to go with you too!)

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  13. Lori, Thank you for the information! I will pass that along when anyone who asks and I will use it in my next post. You are so incredibly generous.
    Peace.

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  14. Amazing photos! I'm completely mesmerized by the apartments in your first pic. wow

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